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Caramel - Never burned, always mastered

Updated: Feb 3, 2022

Sugar is probably one of the most technical elements to master. It can be handled in so many different forms. In this article, I will explain as clearly as possible the process of caramelisation. You will be able to better master your caramels for your next creations.


Why use the plural ? Quite simply, first, caramel can have different tastes, textures and colours. And second, caramel can be the result of a multitude of sugars.

In a simple way, the caramelisation is the dehydration of a saccharide such as sucrose or glucose. Other saccharides can be used such as lactose, maltose, glucose syrups, erythrosis... The family of sugars is vast. However, they are all compounds whose molecules are made up of a skeleton of similar atoms: hydroxyls.

In fact, the chemical reaction of caramelisation results from a complex process of chemical reactions that are still poorly understood.





THERMAL DECOMPOSITION: THE BASE OF CARAMEL


Caramel results from the decomposition of saccharide molecules by heat. Contrary to conventional wisdom, we do not need water to make a caramel. A small amount of water will only dissolve the sugar crystals more easily before the chemical transformation of sucrose. The caramel will therefore be faster to make.


The heat causes what we call : the hydrolysis of sucrose. This leads to the formation of new molecules synthesizing complex sugars. During this process, hundreds of flavor compounds are created. The molecules are divided into two parts: glucose molecules and fructose molecules. Then, these can be combined with glucose molecules in the syrup to form long chains, which, when cooled, will form the mass of the caramel. The whole thing then becomes a homogeneous syrup.


If the sugar is completely dehydrated, we obtain carbon. That’s why, when we ain’t watchful enough, sugar burns.

Fructose and glucose molecules merge at high temperature to form very complex sugars. Aromatic compounds are then formed, the most common is maltol. Maltol is responsible for the sweet taste, which is characteristic of caramel.


During cooling, a brown mass is recovered with great taste. There is smell, taste, sometimes pungency.


The addition of specific compounds to the syrup change the composition of the caramel, and this is how regulations recognize several caramels that are sold with code names.



CHOOSE YOUR SIDE: HARD OR SOFT?


Depending on the temperature, the cooking process and the acidity of the environment, different types of caramel are distinguished, characterized by concentration (unit of mesure : degree Baumé or density). Caramelised candies can be soft or hard and the problem is to know, at the molecular level, the origin of this plasticity.


In general, the drier and more neutral a caramel is, the harder it will be.

To soften it and make smooth candies, we add fresh cream and butter.

To liquefy it, the liquid cream will give it a creamy, smooth appearance. You can also add a lot of water to obtain a real liquid syrup. It’s a good way to soak your pastries (as a rum baba, or a sponge cake)



CARAMEL TIPS & SECRET DETAILS :


1 # The acidity of an environment is a catalyst for the caramelisation reaction, as it increase the breaking of the bonds. It will also have an influence on the texture of the caramel (which will be softer).


2 # To make a caramel without water, you always have to "rock" it, because it’s less homogeneous than with a sugar-water mixture. On the other hand, it burns less quickly. To make a good caramel, never deviate from this law: you must not use any utensil to stir it ! Holding the pan firmly, you must swing it all the time, back and forth.

The more sugar is disturbed, the more likely it is to crystallize.


3 # What you need to know if you put water in:

Sugar is "hygroscopic", meaning it captures water from its surroundings... When sugar is heated, sugar molecules can dissolve.

When sugar heats up, we see of course that water evaporates, but sucrose molecules do not evaporate, because they are much larger, so they need much more energy.


4 # Caramel makes grains? Your utensils are not perfectly clean. Tip: do not stir the caramel with a wooden spoon, otherwise it will cool and produce crystallized lumps.


5 # The Maillard reaction, unlike caramelisation (which only concerns sugars), is a reaction of sugars with amino acids and proteins.

It is not the same reactions, and it is not the same products that are formed.

In the Maillard reaction, sugar does not react to heat.


6 # The melting point of sucrose is 186°C, i.e. your sugar begins to melt at around 170°C. Then take a thermometer and stay alert from that moment on to avoid burning your caramel.


7 # Salted butter caramel is a must in French pastry cooking because it gives a new dimension to desserts. Be careful not to abuse it, the goal is to find the right balance.


8 # It is useless to set fire to maximum power, because as soon as the first sugar crystals melt, they may burn before the whole thing is homogeneous. A medium heat is sufficient.


Now that you know all the secrets of caramels, I invite you to use your imagination to incorporate it into a future creation. Don’t forget to send me picture of it !


Lea from The Paris-Best

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